Sumba: A Rising Star in Luxury Sustainable Tourism

An Island Like No Other

Nestled in the Lesser Sunda Archipelago, Sumba is a stunningly beautiful island that is rapidly gaining recognition as a luxury sustainable tourism destination. With its breathtakingly clear turquoise waters, dramatic limestone cliffs, and hidden powdery beaches, Sumba offers a striking landscape that seems almost otherworldly. The island’s lush mountains and valleys, teeming with natural beauty, remain largely untouched, providing a tantalizing glimpse into a wild and captivating environment.

In recent years, Sumba has caught the attention of travelers seeking destinations off the conventional tourist path. The island’s reputation for magnificent landscapes, a unique cultural heritage, and exceptional surf has attracted investors who are beginning to develop coastal properties. Despite these advances, Sumba’s infrastructure remains basic, allowing much of its beautiful coastline to stay pristine and unspoiled for the time being.

A Cultural Mosaic

Arriving in Sumba, one quickly realizes that this island, while one of the poorest in Indonesia, is rich in cultural heritage. The majority of Sumbanese people practice Christianity, but the indigenous animist belief system known as Marapu also plays an integral role in the island’s identity. This age-old tradition, which emphasizes a deep reverence for the land and the spirits of ancestors, is evident in local architecture, megalithic tombs, and various agricultural rituals.

Upon landing in Sumba and making my way to the Makan Dulu restaurant, I was quickly immersed in the island’s rich ethos. Founded by Inge de Lathauwer as part of the Sumba Hospitality Foundation, Makan Dulu is housed in an elegant bamboo structure that rivals Bali’s popular eateries. Here, students receive training in high-level hospitality, preparing them for sustainable employment in a growing tourism landscape. Dining on a delightful meal prepared by students, I was struck by De Lathauwer’s vision of empowering underprivileged Sumbanese youth with top-notch skills and education.

New Destinations, Old Traditions

Among the newcomers to Sumba’s hospitality scene is Cap Karoso, a modern tropical resort located on the island’s dry west coast. Though its stark concrete structure contrasts with Sumba’s organic architecture, the resort embraces the local landscape with immersive details and textures. Cap Karoso aims to foster dialogue between guests and local communities through cultural, art, and culinary residencies. During my visit, guests enjoyed a unique culinary experience led by esteemed French chef Alice Arnoux, who crafted an exquisite farm-to-table seven-course menu utilizing local seafood and produce.

Further along the coast lies Ngalung Kalla, an eco-retreat dedicated to regenerative tourism. Owned by locals Christian and Ka’ale Sea, this intimate resort serves dishes made from organic ingredients harvested from their own gardens. Christian shared their commitment to preserving the land and enhancing biodiversity, noting that birdlife in the area has doubled over the last decade. The property boasts off-grid bungalows that offer stunning views over secluded bays, providing a tranquil haven for visitors seeking surf, yoga, and organic cuisine.

Paradise Found at NIHI Sumba

A few bays east of Ngalung Kalla is NIHI Sumba, a luxurious resort that dreams are made of. Here, private, thatch-roofed villas are nestled in lush gardens, each boasting bathtubs with ocean views. Aside from unparalleled relaxation, the resort is linked with the Sumba Foundation, dedicated to empowering local communities and preserving cultural traditions. The foundation has made significant strides in improving education, healthcare, and nutrition in the region.

As I traveled along the west and southwest coasts of Sumba, I encountered vibrant textile artisans, stunning coral reefs, and turquoise lagoons that left me longing to explore more. My final stop, Maringi Sumba, served as a fitting capstone for my visit. This intimate boutique resort, also run under the Sumba Hospitality Foundation, offers a warm welcome and top-notch service from students who are eager to share their culture.

Sumba Awaits

With its combination of magnificent natural beauty and a commitment to sustainable tourism, Sumba is poised to become a go-to destination for those in search of unspoiled paradise. As I received one last warm farewell from a student at Maringi Sumba, I couldn’t help but feel that this enchanting island beckons for a return visit. Whether it’s the captivating landscapes, the rich culture, or the emerging luxury accommodations, Sumba is a destination that leaves a lasting impression.

Visitor Information

• Cap Karoso: Studio suites from £320, including breakfast.
• Ngalung Kalla: Bungalows available from £275 per person, including all meals.
• NIHI Sumba: Villas for two from £1,490, including all meals.
• Maringi Sumba: Double rooms starting from £157, all-inclusive.

For travelers and expatriates seeking an unforgettable experience, Sumba stands ready to offer a slice of Indonesia’s untamed beauty.