Can Bali Solve Its Overtourism Dilemma?
By Chad de Guzman, TIME Reporter
Bali, Indonesia’s famed island paradise, has long captivated travelers with its stunning beaches, rich culture, and affordable luxury. Yet, as tourism numbers surge, the question persists: Can Bali overcome the challenges of overtourism without losing its charm?
A Paradise Under Pressure
When French-born American adventurer and filmmaker André Roosevelt visited Bali in 1924, he was enchanted by what he called “The Last Paradise.” Roosevelt’s early films helped popularize Bali among American tourists, but he also foresaw the potential perils of mass tourism. In 1930, he warned against the “invasion” of Western tourists that could lead to the island’s “destruction” and even proposed measures such as a tourist head tax.
Nearly a century later, Bali’s situation echoes Roosevelt’s concerns. The island has become one of the world’s top travel destinations, drawing millions annually with its picturesque scenery and vibrant cultural life. However, the influx of visitors has brought crowded beaches, traffic congestion, environmental degradation, and instances of disrespect toward sacred sites. As essayist Pico Iyer noted in 1986, visitors often lament that the island’s unique allure is being tarnished by “camera-toting crushes” and souvenir hunters.
Economic Reliance vs. Cultural Preservation
Tourism plays a vital role in Bali’s economy, accounting for 60 to 70 percent of the regional GDP, far surpassing the national tourism sector’s 5 percent share of Indonesia’s GDP. Despite this economic boon, the downsides of overtourism remain a persistent dilemma.
In 2023, Bali welcomed 6.33 million international visitors, surpassing the pre-pandemic record of 6.28 million in 2019 and nearly half of Indonesia’s total tourist arrivals for the year. The local government aims to increase this number to 6.5 million visitors by 2025, but officials acknowledge that growing tourism exacerbates existing issues.
Enforcement of Tourist Regulations
Tjok Bagus Pemayun, head of Bali’s provincial tourism office, emphasized that while regulations exist to control tourist behavior, enforcement remains inconsistent. “We will start to carry out law enforcement measures because… what is left to do is the implementation and synchronization,” Pemayun said.
Governor Wayan Koster, who returned to office in February 2024, has urged stricter enforcement of updated guidelines distributed to tourists. These rules, which have been included in visitors’ passports since 2023, stress respectful conduct, such as dressing appropriately at sacred sites, obeying traffic laws, staying at licensed accommodations, and avoiding prohibited behaviors like littering, trespassing sacred areas, and using single-use plastics.
Tourist Tax and Enforcement Challenges
In February 2024, Bali introduced a mandatory tourist levy of approximately $9 per visitor, inspired by Roosevelt’s century-old suggestion. Despite this, only about one-third of tourists have paid the fee, resulting in around 318 billion Indonesian rupiah (approximately $19 million) collected last year. To improve compliance, Governor Koster announced that tourists who do not pay the levy will be denied access to major attractions, and violations of rules may lead to fines, imprisonment, or deportation.
The Bali Civil Service Police Unit (Satpol PP) has been tasked with verifying tourist payments and overseeing adherence to regulations. Meanwhile, the Bali Police will handle enforcement against serious offenders. Last year, authorities prosecuted 226 foreign nationals for various infractions, including 34 Americans.
Addressing Misconduct and Corruption
Niluh Djelantik, a Balinese senator active in managing problematic tourist behavior, remarked that some foreigners treat Indonesia like the “Wild Wild West,” disregarding the country’s religious and morality-based laws. Although sex outside marriage is technically illegal nationwide, enforcement in Bali has been lenient to avoid deterring Western visitors. However, Djelantik pointed to a historic image of corruption as a contributing factor to the steady displacement of Balinese cultural norms.
Reports have surfaced of local officials accepting bribes and extorting tourists to overlook infractions—a practice the national police are actively trying to eliminate.
Additional Measures Under Consideration
In response to concerns about overdevelopment, Indonesia suspended new hotel construction in certain parts of Bali last year. Governor Koster also unveiled a long-term development plan extending to 2125 that, for the first time officially, acknowledges the impacts of overtourism.
Some policies, however, have met resistance or have not been fully implemented. For instance, a ban on tourist motorcycle rentals announced in March 2023 was never fully enforced, although Koster intends to revive it despite opposition from rental companies. Similarly, a ban on tourist visits to Bali’s 22 sacred mountains, introduced in May 2023, has been largely ignored. Proposals for a steep entertainment tax on nightlife services were scrapped after backlash from local businesses.
The Path Forward: Quality Over Quantity
Many experts believe the tourist tax offers the most promise in managing visitor numbers, though it may need to be raised significantly to deter unsustainable tourism. “Bali is being sold as a cheap tourist destination,” Pemayun said. “Hopefully, we can minimize that so we can do better for Bali in future.” Wayan Puspa Negara, chairman of the Bali Marginal Tourism Actors Alliance, advocates for a shift toward quality tourism by enhancing the destination and investing in human resources.
Global and Local Concerns
Bali’s overtourism challenges mirror those faced by other popular destinations. Residents of Barcelona made headlines last year for protesting overcrowding by squirting water at tourists. Indonesia’s former tourism minister, Sandiaga Uno, warned in September 2023 that a 10 percent rise in Bali’s tourist arrivals could provoke similar local frustrations. Yet, 2024 saw a 20 percent increase from the previous year.
This situation has led to debate about the wisdom of aiming to attract even more visitors. As Djelantik questions, “Are we talking only about the number in terms of more tourists, meaning more income—income for who? More tourists meaning more prosperity—prosperity for who?”
Conclusion
Bali stands at a crossroads, balancing the economic benefits of its massive tourist industry against the preservation of its cultural identity and environment. Efforts to enforce regulations, collect tourist levies, and manage growth are underway, but their success depends on political will, public cooperation, and the willingness of tourists to respect the island’s unique heritage. As Bali charts its future, the hope remains that it can retain its paradise status without falling victim to the very crowds that admire it.
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