Discovering Amed: Bali’s Hidden Gem

A Throwback to Old Bali

Nestled in the shadow of the majestic Mount Agung, Amed stands as a refreshing contrast to Bali’s more commercialized tourist hubs. Characterized by its serene black sandy beaches and a rustic charm, Amed offers visitors a glimpse into what Bali used to be, far removed from the bustling scenes of Kuta, Legian, Seminyak, and Canggu.

While the southern parts of the island are dominated by high-rise hotels, corporate logos, and vibrant nightlife, Amed attracts a different crowd. Here, thrill-seekers and nature enthusiasts can indulge in activities like hiking and exploring world-class snorkeling and diving sites, all set against the backdrop of Bali’s dramatic coastline.

A Journey to Amed

Arriving at Denpasar International Airport just past midnight, I was thankful for my pre-arranged transfer, as Amed is located at least a two-and-a-half-hour drive to the northeast. As I drifted off to sleep during the ride, I anticipated the tranquility that awaited me.

Upon my 3 AM arrival, Amed’s quiet main street greeted me with an eerie stillness, illuminated by the moonlight. Guided by my driver, I made my way down a long gravel driveway leading to my accommodation. The gentle sound of waves breaking on the shore enhanced the serenity of the moment.

My choice of stay, Tambun Sari Beach Homestay, proved to be a delightful find at just $45 a night. The host, Putu Dian Amerta, had thoughtfully left a light on and the key in the door, making my late-night entry seamless.

The Allure of Amed’s Coastline

Amed boasts a humble atmosphere, with its landscape defined by low-rise accommodations and beach bar shacks. My bungalow was a cozy retreat, featuring basic amenities—a four-poster bed and a semi-outdoor bathroom with charming cobblestone flooring, where small crabs occasionally roamed.

Each morning, I awoke to the sounds of Amed’s vibrant life. The crowing of roosters was complemented by the sight of fishermen maneuvering their outrigger canoes—known locally as “jukung”—which resembled large spiders as they glided along the coast. Enjoying a coconut drink from a plastic lounge, I watched as the local fishermen sorted their morning catch, a tableau of island life unfolding before me.

Diving into Amed’s Marine Treasures

Amed is renowned for its diving and snorkeling opportunities, with remarkable coral gardens and historic shipwrecks situated just a swim away from the shore. I joined Dream Divers Bali, eager to explore the World War II-era cargo shipwreck known as the USAT Liberty in nearby Tulamben Bay. The experience was breathtaking, featuring warm waters and visibility extending up to 15 meters. The shipwreck was adorned with vibrant corals, attracting an array of marine life, including stingrays, groupers, and sea turtles.

Another highlight for snorkelers is the Japanese Wreck, located just a short drive south of Amed Beach. Surrounded by lush coral, the wreck is accessible to those who prefer to keep their feet above the waterline while still engaging with Bali’s underwater beauty.

An Evening in Amed

As night fell, Amed’s atmosphere transformed into a peaceful enclave perfect for relaxation after a day of adventures. My evening entailed a casual feast of nasi goreng at Wawa-Wewe, a charming beachside bar that offered live music under strings of festoon lights. Travelers lounged comfortably as a local band played, each person seemingly worn out yet satisfied from the day’s exploits.

On my way back to the homestay, I stumbled upon a small community fair, where the inviting aroma of street food filled the air. I couldn’t resist sampling chicken satay skewers sizzling over open flames, their enticing appearance prompting me to order six. Wrapped in handwritten paper by the vendor, these morsels were a delicious reminder of Amed’s authentic culinary offerings.

Plan Your Visit

Amed may not be the ultimate tourist hotspot, but it encapsulates the essence of old Bali that many seek. Its tranquil atmosphere, breathtaking scenery, and rich marine life make it a hidden gem worth exploring.

Travel Information

• Air Travel: Jetstar offers flights to Bali (Denpasar) from multiple Australian cities, including Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Perth, Adelaide, Cairns, and Darwin. For more information, visit Jetstar.com.
• Accommodation: Rooms at Tambun Sari Beach Homestay start at IDR 450,000 (approximately $45) per night. Booking can be made via booking.com or by contacting Putu Amerta directly at +62 877 6283 2391.

With its unique blend of natural beauty and cultural authenticity, Amed invites travelers to step away from the crowds and immerse themselves in the quieter side of Bali, promising an unforgettable getaway.