Can Bali Solve Its Overtourism Dilemma?

By Chad de Guzman, TIME

Foreign tourists relax on Kuta Beach near Denpasar on Indonesia’s island of Bali on Nov. 18, 2023. Photo: Sonny Tumbelaka—AFP/Getty Images

When André Roosevelt, a French-born American adventurer and filmmaker, arrived in Bali in 1924, he was captivated yet conflicted. Known for producing a film that ignited American interest in the island and for running resorts catering to tourists, Roosevelt also foresaw potential destructive changes as Bali became increasingly popular among outsiders. In his writings, he raised concerns about overtourism and suggested imposing a tourist tax, an idea that has finally been adopted by Bali in 2024. Today, Bali stands as both a mesmerizing paradise and a victim of its success. The island attracts millions of visitors each year, enchanted by its stunning beaches, rich culture, affordable luxury, and myriad recreational options. However, the increasing influx of tourists has led to significant changes in the locale, often stripping it of its unique charm, which observers have lamented for decades. Pico Iyer, an essayist, once remarked, "Every intruder on the island quickly registers its palm-fringed beaches… and then remarks that all these delights are being corrupted."

The Economic Duality

Tourism, a crucial economic driver for Bali, is also a growing source of frustration. According to 2019 estimates, tourists contribute to 60-70% of Bali’s regional GDP, a stark contrast to the national tourism sector’s representation of about 5% of Indonesia’s GDP. In 2023, Bali welcomed a record 6.33 million international visitors, surpassing its pre-pandemic high of 6.28 million in 2019. The provincial tourism office’s head, Tjok Bagus Pemayun, has set an ambitious target to reach 6.5 million visitors by 2025, despite acknowledging that any additional tourism would exacerbate the ongoing challenges posed by overtourism.

Pemayun stated that existing regulations are often ignored by tourists and that stringent law enforcement measures are essential to preserving Bali’s integrity. In a bid to tackle these challenges, local Governor Wayan Koster has committed to updating the island’s tourism guidelines, which have been included in visitors’ passports since 2023. These guidelines clarify acceptable tourist behaviors, emphasizing respect for sacred sites and proper waste disposal.

Policy Implementation Challenges

Despite recent efforts, compliance with the new tourist levy, which also costs approximately $9, has proven to be insufficient. Last year, only one-third of visitors paid the tax, even with dedicated enforcement efforts from the Bali Civil Service Police Unit. Koster announced that tourists failing to comply with this levy would be denied access to attractions, while violators of other regulations could face legal repercussions, including fines or deportation.

Balinese senator, Niluh Djelantik, who has become a prominent voice in the movement against irresponsible tourist behavior, notes that foreign visitors often perceive Bali as a place without law. The varying enforcement of laws across Indonesia further complicates matters. While some laws are in place to maintain social order, their application can vary significantly, leading to misunderstandings about local customs and expectations.

Striking a Balance

To address the situation, Bali suspended new hotel constructions in certain areas last year to manage overdevelopment. In addition, Governor Koster has initiated a long-term development plan for the island, acknowledging the impacts of overtourism and pledging to enhance the quality of tourism rather than merely the numbers.

However, implementing these plans has not been without its pitfalls. Changes such as a motorcycle rental ban intended to curb traffic accidents have seen inconsistent application. Similarly, restrictions on tourist access to sacred mountains have been disregarded by many travelers. Notably, a proposed entertainment tax was retracted following pushback from local businesses wary of their economic impact.

These ongoing issues highlight the complexity of the situation. While the newly introduced tourist tax represents a hopeful solution, many stakeholders suggest that the fee may need to be higher to deter the ambivalent crowd that contributes to overtourism. Pemayun pointed out that promoting Bali as a "cheap" destination undermines efforts toward sustainable tourism.

Looking Ahead

As Bali grapples with the challenge of managing overtourism, it mirrors struggles faced by global destinations. Local discontent in tourist-heavy areas like Barcelona serves as a cautionary tale, prompting officials to tread carefully between the desire for economic growth and the need for community wellbeing.

"Djelantik expresses concern over the conflicting goals of boosting tourist numbers while managing the social impacts of increased arrivals." The question remains: as Bali continues to attract more visitors, how will it uphold its identity and provide for its residents amidst the challenges of overtourism?

As Bali steps into a future where tourism dynamics evolve, proactive measures and community engagement will be crucial in crafting an experience that honors both the island’s heritage and its economic aspirations.